CANLIS
Neighborhood: Queen Anne
Cuisine: Pacific Northwest
Cost: Pricey. I'll just leave it at that.
"Hello, ladies, I'd like to tell you that the sommeliers sent over this bottle of Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay," said Nelson, the wine director at Canlis, as he presented the green bottle with appropriate decorum. "Kevin is an opera singer and has two Westies. Phillip has a lab and, I forget the name of the other, but it starts with an M." A conversation nothing short of expected at Canlis, Seattle's favorite go-to for fine dining and feeling like the most well-loved customer.
From its exclusive spot overlooking Lake Union, to its $10,000 bottles of wine, to its strict dress code (get over it, Seattle), to its celebrity patrons (Ich-i-ro, Ich-i-ro!), one might be a bit anxious in approaching this Pacific Northwest foodie landmark.
And rightly so. I remember the first time I dined at Canlis: I entered the hushed space, free from the noise of Aurora traffic, to hear piano music playing somewhere in the distance. The decor: serene and luxe. I looked down at my heels and scolded myself for not choosing my fancier pair.
But that feeling of nervousness fades away when greeted by the host, who is not snooty as you might expect, but warm and welcoming. Often, one of the owners of Canlis will be standing with them, and may actually seat you.
I guess that's the magic of Canlis: no matter who you are--recent college grad knee deep in student loans, or old money heir with a yacht or two--they make you feel like a gazillion bucks.
I mentioned piano music. Every night, Canlis is blessed to be serenaded by pianist Walt Wagner. He'll play anything from the romantic 1940s standards, to Lady Gaga and Rihanna... boy, do they sound classy when merely played on the piano.
But amazing service and ambiance isn't what it's all about; let's get down to it--the food!
The first time I was lucky enough to go, I was even luckier to get a full-blown meal. I chose the seared scallops with butternut squash, hearts of palm, and chorizo. I really can distinctly remember that dish. Every part of it was so delicate and each part had its own dynamic flavor. And that was only the first course. For my main course, I chose the king salmon with figs, chanterelles, and pinot noir jus. Just the sound of that dish conjures up elegance, don't you think?
I believe that every meal at Canlis comes with the daily "amuse bouche," which is a single bite-sized hors d’œuvre that awakens the taste buds. That night, we were given a shot glass of beet-apple puree soup, paired with a teeny little cheese cracker: toasted gruyere with warm goat cheese and lemon jam. I mean, come on. So fantastic. If that weren't enough while we waited for what we actually ordered, their house-made bread made its way to us, and then a gift from the chef, Jason Franey--black truffle ravioli in fumet (a foamy sauce made with yellow wine)--which my table received because I was dining with a Canlis employee. Knowing the right person will get you so much good food.
Another memorable meal at Canlis happened not too long ago, when my party and I dined in the lounge. Even though we didn't have a full-on meal in the style of when I first went, the experience was nonetheless heavenly. Some of my favorite dishes of the night were the Teriyaki Tenderloin (flash seared with broccoli and gomashi), Truffle Fries (with fine herbs and fleur de sel), and the Yellow Fin Tuna (sashimi, carpaccio and tartar, with pickled radish, yuzu and haricots vert).
In conclusion: Expect what you pay for at Canlis... and more! Because you never know what they'll throw at you. Canlis loves food, family, and you, the welcome patron. Which is why its my favorite restaurant in Seattle.
